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France, Italy and Switzerland, August 2002

 

Day 6

 

We left at 8:30 am with water and lunch for the 2 1/2 hour walk to Calenque en Vau.  The previous day we had gone to Casino, the local grocery store, bought supplies and made a fantastic pasta salad.  It had tuna, lemon mayonnaise, olives, corn, ceci, artichoke hearts salt and pepper.  Emily described the cashier as 'incredibly butch, typical Marseillaise".  We also brought four liters of water, two of which was frozen.  Despite getting lost, we arrived at 11:15 am to find the area full of people but not crowded. 

 

One has three ways to get to this beach: hiking, taking a boat or kayaking.  We swam in the incredible water that looked better than the pictures in the book we bought, ate lunch, sunned, watched people and had an altogether wonderful time.  After a few hours we started back.  This time we didn't lose our way but did run out of water.  Just so you know, on the way to Calenque en Vau, if you hike, you pass by two other calenques, Port Miou and Port Pin.  The former has boats permanently moored and the latter has a sandy beach that clouds the water, go all the way to en Vau!  Yeah, but you should bring Tevas or flip-flops as walking on the large pebble beach is rather a bummer.  It really hurts and the going is slow and hot.  OK, small price to pay for paradise.

 

Calenque en Vau as viewed from the limestone cliffs.  This area is fantastic!

 

A closer view of the famous Calenque en Vau.  The water was more blue than green the day that we were there.

 

That night we ate at Chez Romano and had the Bouillabaisse, 68 euros for two people.  After last night I found it to be good but not worth the price.  During dinner we listened as two guitars played the Gypsy Kings.  As we strolled back to the studio, along the water, between the boats and other diners in the warm night sky, we came upon the same cat show of the previous night, at the exact same spot in the routine.  Once again we watched for a few minutes then retired for the night.  At some point during this day we also found time to locate the Laundromat (one load for 5.50 euros), eat ice cream twice and also get a 'Brasilia Sunday' that had coffee, caramel, maple walnut and too much chantilly (cream).

 

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